December 24, 1999

Iceberg near Hermit Island.

Christmas Eve was one of the most spectacular days we have had on the ice! Steve and I had planned on working for a couple of hours and ended up staying out on the water and visiting islands right until dinnertime. We drifted in loose pack ice, recording the sounds of floating brash that resonanted like crystal in the swell. We spotted numerous crabeater seals and leopard seals hauled out on small bergs. Listening below the surface, leopard seals patrolled; their calls seem to have become more dense and frequent as the season progresses. Adelie and gentoo penguins porpoised through Arthur Harbor and the waters leading out to the Bismarck Straits. Several new icebergs have appeared in the area, yielding wonderous and fantastic shapes that conjure the sculptural visions of Moore, Naguchi and Arp. Mt. Williams could be seen in the distance. The day shimmered as the sun rotated in the sky, casting everything in a brilliant relief of white, blue and black.

Crabeater seal hauled out on the pack ice.

After a quick lunch back at Station, we headed over to Christie Cove on the other side of Bonaparte Point. Here, in a protected inlet ice gathered in pockets against the shore. A group of elephants seals were hauled out in a wallow. Steam rose from thier molting bodies as the sun climbed to its height. They slept, bellowed from time to time and adjusted their positions on the rocks. Everywhere, we could hear the deep exhalations and snores. We put ashore and approached with caution. The sheer size of these animals is extraordinary. I have worked around walruses before and was wary about getting too close. In Alaska, I had witnessed beach clearing brawls when hundreds of these animals would be spooked and make for the water. The elephant seals are different. Some noted our presence, but with marginal interest and little or no concern. We would get an occasional glance from a very large, blood-shot eye--and every now and then, a dispassionate grunt. With no predators on land, they have no fear of humans--much like the penguins and shags that we have spent time recording. Steve observed the uncanny resemblance of several bulls to Jabba the Hutt from Star Wars. While no DNA link has been clearly established--scientists have been speculating about extra-terrestrial settlement and colonization...

Elephant seal wallow at Christie Cove.

We wandered about the periphery of the wallow and got close to several individuals who were sound asleep. The animals are molting and matted fur has collected in every nearby chink and hollow. In the heat of midday, the stench rose, clinging to our palettes. Every so often, a large bull reared up to survey his harem. He would bellow, making his presence known, and roll over. While at the edges of the haul out, subadults lay side by side--well away from the dominant male. They snorted and snoozed and, in agitation, muscled over onto one another's cozy spot. A quick response would bring two young males into a threat display, a mock combat posture: chest to chest. With mouths agape they would arch their backs and throw their heads back, trying to get the higher position. For the most part these ended benignly enough. One would back down and they would go back to sleep, draped one over the other.

Young elephant seal molting.

Click here to listen to an MP3 sample of an elephant seal bull bellowing.

Nearby, Antarctic terns perched on rocks and sounded their alarm--at us and at every passer by including giant petrels, kelp gulls and brown skuas. They buzzed us and, for some reason, did not take a shine to Steve's cap or to my microphone wind screen: a furry resemblance to boxing promoter, Don King. They hovered, heckled and chattered above our heads.

Back at Station, Christmas festivities were in full swing. The chef, Dawn Biddison, and her colleague, Sue Deyoe, have been working 15 hours a day all week preparing a sumptuous feast! The galley was decked out, the tables arranged and set with table cloths and candles. Wine, egg nog, and assorted punches were ready to go. The evening was picture perfect--dinner stretched into the evening. We gathered on the galley porch and watched the sun slant behind the icebergs. At about 9:00pm, Chip Dunn tuned in our radio for carols from McMurdo Station and a bluegrass concert from South Pole Station...

...and to all a good night!

Christmas Dinner Menu Appetizers Shrimp Cocktail Crudités with Sundried Tomato Cream Cheese Dip Monterey Pumpkin Dip Ranch Cream Cheese Dip Puff Pastry Squares with Feta, Olive, Artichoke Heart and Sunndried Tomato Cream Cheese, Smoked Salmon, Scallion and Dill Main Course Herb Rubbed Maple Glazed Turkey Pineapple Brown Sugar Baked Ham Onion, Garlic and Herb Sautéed Pumpkin Old Fashioned Stuffing with Cornbread Wild and Brown Rice Pilaf with Cranberries Spiced Brown Sugar Walnut Yam Casserole Buttered Corn Herbed Peas Dilled Baby Carrots Sherried Turkey Gravy Sherried Mushroom Gravy Grand Marnier Cranberry Relish Iowa Cranberry Relish Potato Herb Knotty Rolls Pumpkin Cloverleaf Rolls Desserts Apple Walnut Crumb Pie Pumpkin Pie Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie Missy's Spiked Apple Crisp with Cranberries Bailey's Chocolate Chip Cheesecake Frangelico Chocolate Cheesecake with Raspberry Sauce Assorted Truffles... White Chocolate Dipped Cocoa Walnut Rum French Vanilla Dark Chocolate Dipped, Bittersweet Chocolate, Grand Marnier with Toasted Pecans White Chocolate Dipped, Bittersweet Chocolate, Chambord with Toasted Almonds French Vanilla Drak Chocolate Dipped, Hershey's Chocolate, Pumpkin, Kahlua with Almonds

Ken "Cheech" Navarro

Christmas Dinner

Andrew Altieri (left) and Will Silva (right)

Christmas Desserts